Critical February Security Patches

Microsoft's Patch Tuesday is next week. And it's going to be VERY important

Microsoft's security patches are due to be released at 1:00pm EST on Tuesday 12th February. [Read more here from MS  ]

The longer you take to update the security patches on your computer, the greater potential risk you could find yourself in!!

In all, 57 separate security flaws are waiting to be fixed.

According to Microsoft, every single version of Internet Explorer - from version 6 to version 10 - needs to be patched, as they are vulnerable to exploitation by drive-by attacks.

That means that simply visiting a booby-trapped webpage could silently infect your computer with malware - hijacking your PC for a hacker's own ends.

According to an advisory from the software giant, five of the 12 security updates have been given Microsoft's highest severity rating of "critical".

Also note that Adobe has again released critical security patches to it's Flash Player software. [read here]

Even if you are not on a Windows/Microsoft Operating System you should still make sure your Adobe Flash, Adobe Shockwave  and Oracle's Java software  and Browser Plug-ins are up to date!

Be safe out there! MMm K.

Disable UPnP to Protect Yourself from New Security Hole Found in Wi-Fi Routers.

If you don't know. And most of you probably don't. There is a major security flaw that has been recently aggressively exploited. It could allow people with malicious intent access your system(s). Mac, Windows PC and Linux, all are vulnerable because this is NOT a OS flaw, but a router flaw! So please don’t think you are safe just because you by into the belief (very wrong by the way) that ‘your’ type of Operating System ‘doesn’t get infected…’.  Scans from security companies have shown about 50 MILLION vulnerable access points already.

It is strongly suggest that end users, companies, and ISPs take immediate action to identify and disable any internet-exposed UPnP endpoints in their environments.
UPnP is pervasive - it is enabled by default on many home gateways, nearly all network printers, and devices ranging from IP cameras to network storage servers.

Rapid7.com has an online tool here  that can check the external interface of your router and let you know if you are vulnerable.

To fix/resolve this issue all you need to disable UPnP on your wireless router.
Since each router is different, you’ll need to login to your wireless router’s admin panel (use the manual to figure that out), and then find the UPnP setting. This may require someone with more skills (like your teenager) or an IT professional (preferred method) to turn this off for you you. But however you do it, please do it.

Be safe.

Tech power and input deals.

For those with laptop/portable computers you know what it's like to always have to pack everything in your bag for each trip.

Why not keep have an extra power supply so that you can have one at home AND the office (or in your bag) always waiting? No constantly having to reach and dig behind the desk to unplug the power supply. And then do the same when you get to the office.

Here is a super solution. And right now this is on sale for only $19.99 w/free shipping at Newegg.com.
Rosewill RMNA-11001 Universal automatic Notebook Power Adapter 90W
http://bit.ly/KSUOpD

And while your at it how about an additional mouse? I use this one on PCs and Macs. Works great. I have a few of these too – home, office and travel bag.
http://bit.ly/UBT2ib

Just thought I'd pass this on.

Flash update kills Firefox causing hanging and crashing

Starting with the latest Adobe Flash version, some browsers, particularly Firefox, will hang or crash.

After the last Adobe Flash update my Firefox Browser became completely unusable. Chrome and Internet Explorer (IE) still worked but they too were markedly slower.

I am a huge fan of Firefox and use it as my primary browser because it enables me to use a plethora of extensions that greatly increase my productivity and the usefulness of the pages and sites I visit. [I'll list my plug-ins at the end]

To get Firefox to even work at all I had to started it in Safe Mode -
in the ‘Run’ dialog type "Firefox -safe-mode" (minus quotes) - Then choose to continue in safe mode. Then go to 'Tools>Add-ons>Plug-ins and then disable Shockwave Flash. That would then allow Firefox to work but obviously that is not a solution.  Without Flash you can hardly view some websites and of course could not watch most videos or multi-media files.

So I set off on a solution like an angry rhino.

I tried uninstalling Adobe Flash (using Windows Uninstall AND Adobe's own 'Flash Removal Tool) and re-installing it several times; that didn't work.
You can get the official Adobe Flash 'uninstaller' here. [download/save and then 'run as administrator' to use it.]

For all of Adobe's Flash Player downloads (the FULL Offline installers) you can go here
Make sure you download all the players you will need - if on Windows download the one for Internet Explorer AND the 'Plugin-based browsers' versions.

I tried using older versions of Firefox; that didn't work.
Re-installed the latest version of Firefox, with Flash Player 11.3.300.257, 
I tried the latest Beta/Developer versions of Firefox ; that didn't work.
I tried reverting to older versions of Flash; that too didn't work.

I finally found the reason for this behavior AND a solution after MUCH searching and LOADS of aggravation.

According to Adobe, "Starting with Flash Player 11.3, a protected mode was added as a new security enhancement for Firefox 4.0 and greater on Windows Vista and higher.  This security enhancement is designed to limit the impact of attacks launched from malicious Flash content (SWF files)."

They are trying to 'sandbox' Flash files to limit their susceptibility to being used as vectors for more serious virus/Trojan attacks.
Problem is I believe their developers FAILED. While the idea of sandboxing is sound (Chrome and the latest IE browsers use it extensively) this implementation is obviously poorly written and implemented in Flash for Firefox.
You would think that Adobe, with it's truckloads of cash, could hire decent security coders and engineers and then thoroughly test their software. But judging by that fact that Adobe's products have been the primary vector for serious security wholes over the last 7 years I guess not. But I digress.

Ok so now to the solution
To disable this newer 'protected mode':
add the following line to your 'mms.cfg' file located in:

On Windows 32bit: C:\windows\system32\macromed\flash
Or
On Windows 64bit: C:\windows\syswow64\macromed\flash

"ProtectedMode = 0"  (without the quotes)

If the mms.cfg file does not exist, create one using any standard text editor (e.g.. notepad).

Make sure if you create the file that the file 'extension - is NOT a .txt but is the .cfg.
If you don't see or know how to see the file name extensions you can read how to do that here. Depending on your operating system, you might need to first create and or save the mms.cfg file to a writable location (such as your documents or desktop folder) and then copy the file into the destination folder using Windows Explorer.

Here is a link to a zipped mms.cfg file version with Protected Mode disabled (directly from Adobe).

Download, unzip the file and copy it to the needed location.
One note:
I did not find the mms.cfg file in my "C:\windows\system32\macromed\flash" so I copied that file to there.

I did however also find an mms.cfg file in my "C:\windows\syswow64\macromed\flash" directory.

There I simply opened the mms.cfg file (with notepad) and just added the line ProtectedMode = 0

below the last line there.

Then I started Firefox normally. Went to Tools>Add-Ons>Plugins and made sure Shockwave Flash was 'Enabled'

Now all is working very well. And since I'm using version 14 (beta) of Firefox things are even faster.

That ends two days of aggravation.
I hope that helps some of you.

For those that care here are the Firefox Extensions/Add-ons I use:

Adblock Plus
http://adblockplus.org/en/

After the Deadline
http://atdfirefox.wordpress.com/

Better Gmail 2
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/better-gmail-2/?src=userprofile

Video Download Helper
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/video-downloadhelper/

Downloads Context Menu
http://www.bm-productions.tk/

https://addons.mozilla.org/firefox/downloads/file/128500/downloads_context_menu-1.5-fx-windows.xpi

Ghostery
http://www.ghostery.com/

Google Redesigned
http://www.globexdesigns.com/#!products/gr
https://addons.mozilla.org/firefox/downloads/latest/8434/addon-8434-latest.xpi?src=addondetail

FireFTP
http://fireftp.mozdev.org/

IE Tab V2
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/ie-tab-2-ff-36/

PDF Download
http://www.pdfdownload.org/

Redirect Remover
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/downloads/latest/537/addon-537-latest.xpi

RightToClick
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/righttoclick/

Social Fixer for Facebook
http://socialfixer.com/

Stop Autoplay
http://neticat.ath.cx/forum/index.php

TinEye Reverse Image Search
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/tineye-reverse-image-search/

Vacuum Places Improved
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/vacuum-places-improved/?src=api

Greasemonkey
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/greasemonkey/

Greasemonkey Scripts:
Search here http://userscripts.org/
Google Maps Zoom
http://jeffpalm.com/gzoom/

YouTube Enhancer
http://userscripts.org/scripts/show/33042

Avoid Internet Doomsday: Check for DNSChanger Malware Now

Some background:
The DNS system is a network of servers that translates a web address -- such as http://www.google.com -- into the numerical addresses that computers use to locate actual websites, computers and servers. It is known as the Internet's phone book, which translates URLs to the IP address for the server hosting the Web site. This is not only true for Web sites, but also for any other Internet-based service being used, including servers for e-mail, backups, synchronization, chat programs, and calendars AND antivirus programs to update themselves.

Back in November, law enforcement authorities working with the Federal Bureau of Investigation arrested six of the seven individuals in Estonia responsible for infecting millions of Windows and Mac machines worldwide with the DNSChanger Trojan. As part of the "Operation Ghost Click" raid, FBI agents also seized over 100 servers at data centers throughout the United States masquerading as legitimate DNS servers.

If the FBI were to simply shut down the DNS network, then the millions of computers that had been affected by the malware would instantly no longer be able to access the Internet, and given the scope of this malware infection, would suddenly cut off many and very likely have a notable negative impact globally. Being infected with the malware, these systems would not benefit from users checking for and changing their DNS settings, since the malware would continually revert it and thereby continually disrupt communications.

To prevent this, the FBI instead chose to keep the rogue DNS servers active and convert it to a legitimate DNS system for infected computers. Since November 2011, there has been a campaign by the government, security agencies and MANY high profile internet service providers (ISPs) to notify users of the DNSChanger malware and offer services to help users identify systems that are infected.

Most victims don't even know their computers have been infected, although the malicious software probably has slowed their web surfing and disabled their antivirus software, making their machines more vulnerable to other problems.

To quickly and easily see if this may affect you and what you can do about it visit this site

Click on the link in the middle of the page and you will be notified if you are currently infected.

If you are infected/compromised you can visit this page for resolution tips and instructions.

Remember this trojan/virus will affect PC's AND Macs. Better safe than sorry. Or you could always call me for a hou$e call when your system won't connect to the internet.

You can read the FBI's page here.

Google has one here

Facebook also has one here.

Spring Data Backups and Recovery

So it’s spring. Time for some cleaning and maintenance for many around that house. It’s also a good time to check your backup plans and procedures for your digital data too. Or if you don’t have any make and apply some sort of plan.

You know those stupid commercials about not knowing when you will lose your data. Well THEIR TRUE. It is not a matter of ‘IF’ but when. There are many factors and events that can cause a loss of your important data: Things such as fire, flood, earthquake and other natural disasters. Power surges or outages. Theft of your primary system(s) failure of part or all of your system(s) and of course malicious software such as extortionware or virus’. Remember electronics like everything else WILL fail. And of course usually when you need it most or expect it least.

So please design and USE some sort of plan. I recommend a solution that utilizes technology to it fullest. And for that I recommend backing up you data locally to external/removable hard disk drive(s) (that can and should then be stored in a fire safe or safe deposit box!) along with a combination of some form of ‘cloud’ type of service. I’ll discuss both here.

Cloud Storage solutions such as Mozy, Carbonite etc. and other ‘Synchronization’ type of services such as; Dropbox, Box.net, iCloud, SkyDrive and many others offer a wonderful addition to ANY backup plan. And I use many of them and recommend them as an addition or supplemental solution. You can read my previous article here.

There are a number of things to consider with ‘Cloud’ services, things like:

Bandwidth and storage size - you will be backing your data up to the cloud, and it’s your Internet connection you’ll be using. You need to evaluate your internet connection (and ISP rules and limits regarding that bandwidth – some ISPs severely restrict the amount of data you can use per month!), and whether or not you need to increase your bandwidth speed and/or allotment.

Backup and Restore times – If you are backing up (or synchronizing) a lot of data, how long will it take for the backup and more importantly the ‘restore’ to occur? There are two methods for moving the data back and forth – one is to backup the ‘entire’ file(s) each and every time they are modified. The second is to just synchronize/backup the changed data (called delta or diffing).

Will the company be there when you need it?! -  Startups sometimes offer amazing prices for cloud storage but require a leap of faith on behalf of users that they'll still be around next year. It's possible that even established services could disappear overnight, but more likely the owners will tell you if the service is to terminate, and give you a chance to make other arrangements or retrieve data. Make sure to choose one with a LONG track of ‘being there’.

System Resource Usage – Some applications can cause your system to dramatically slow down while others are ‘lighter’ on systems resources and synchronize or back up when you are not using your system or at scheduled times. The best way to find out which works for you is try a few of them.

And of Course Security – This is not a small thing. You must make sure your account is protected by a very secure username and password AND that the service you use is very reputable. Also for backup services (vs just the synching type) do they offer ‘full file encryption’? How are your files AND passwords stored on that system – are they themselves encrypted? Are files encrypted before they are sent to the cloud storage provider and are they transmitted via a secure connection (https, sftp etc.)?

On a personal note I don’t put ANYTHING in the ‘Cloud’ that contains any truly sensitive information. I simply synchronize documents, photos and other files that I may not really want to have someone access but that I would still not be ‘harmed’ if they were somehow compromised and accessed. For these purposes – easy access to my documents and files from anywhere, and also collaboration with individuals or teams, the cloud reigns supreme; I can place working documents into many locations, access them from just about anywhere and even share them if I need to. I can also restore ‘lost’ or previous versions of documents and files fairly quickly and easily with these ‘cloud services’. Like I’ve mentioned many times previously, I am extremely careful about my personal security so I use cloud services as an ‘adjunct’ to my ‘real’ back/disaster plan.

I back up ALL my data using disk imaging. It is the only method that can reproduce, to an exact point in time, your existing system; Operating System, Applications AND files quickly and easily. Usually within less than a couple hours depending on the size of your image(s).

With disk imaging (or cloning) I have the ability to be up and running extremely fast. I can restore an entire system or individual files. No need to re-install an operating system and applications and then update them just to be able to access my files. External Hard Disk Drives (and spare internal ones too!) are still inexpensive and getting cheaper all the time!

I have written many times previously [read here and here and for Macs here ]about the prudence and wisdom of having backups of your digital data. And by backup I mean that your data exists in TWO places at once and is able to be accessed or recreated from either source quickly and easily. For this I believe the best solution is to use Disk Images for both Windows PC’s and Mac OS X systems.

Please read my other articles (linked above) and get and work a backup plan. For my Windows operating systems I use and recommend Acronis and for Apple OS X systems I recommend Carbon Copy Cloner. Both provide a superior solution to those built into either OS.

Peace, and good luck.

Windows AND Mac System Security News 04-12-2012

For OSX users:
Apple just released Java for OS X 2012-003, an update to the Java implementation in OS X. The update removes "the most common variants of the Flashback malware." Check that out here. You should definitely update your Java NOW!

For Windows users.
It's even scarier again. Trend Micro has found some scary ass Ransomware.

You can and SHOULD read the scary details here.

From TrendMicro’s blog, here is some of the details.

"We have encountered a ransomware unlike other variants that we have seen previously. A typical ransomware encrypts files or restricts user access to the infected system. However, we found that this particular variant infects the Master Boot Record (MBR), preventing the operating system from loading. Based on our analysis, this malware copies the original MBR and overwrites it with its own malicious code. Right after performing this routine, it automatically restarts the system for the infection take effect. When the system restarts, the ransomware displays the following message:

This message prompt informs affected users that the PC is now blocked and that they should pay 920 hryvnia (UAH) via QIWI to a purse number (12 digits) – 380682699268. Once paid,they will receive a code that will unlock the system. This code will supposedly resume operating system to load and remove the infection. This particular variant has the “unlock code” in its body. When the unlock code is used, the MBR routine is removed.

Bottom line PLEASE keep your security software, Operating Systems and Browsers (including and especially browser plug-ins like Java, Flash etc.) up to date and patched.

Peace.

More Scareware going around–Fake disk errors and hidden files.

More security news. There is another round of Scareware/Trojans going around that trick users into infecting their machines http://bit.ly/zqaBJK and then ransoming a fix for money.

This new threat, named "Trojan.HiddenFilesFraud.A" by Bitdefender's researchers, hides all files and folders on your machine and disables some standard keyboard shortcuts so you can't un-hide them. To further inflame your mania it displays error messages as-if from Windows reporting such worries as "damaged hard disk clusters." Disk scareware hides files.Just when your frenzy is at its peak, the fake disk repair tool goes to work. It busily spins and flashes and eventually reports a plethora of errors. Want the problem fixed? All you have to do is register... for $80. The worst of it is, even when you do register it doesn't unhide your files. Pay $80 for the repair utility that will do absolutely nothing once purchased. The scam is done, the money is gone. And there is a good chance your credit card will be used for more fraudulent activity in the very near future!

It displays a fake 'error' and 'fix window' that if clicked on (EVEN TO CLOSE!!) actually infects the machine! The the user is supposed to be scared enough and convinced to reach for his pocket and 

Please keep your Anti-virus/Spyware application, Systems and especially your Browsers up to date! I have posted previously on how to 'get out' of this bogus application look here http://bit.ly/pUhosM and throughout my blog for MANY articles regarding security please check them out. Or you could just pay me to fix what you mess up for not following my advise.

Be safe folks! Peace.

Exchange 2003 P2V and drive expansion fix

It’s been a long few weeks.

I Had an Exchange 2003 server whose physical hardware was failing - drive and drive controller errors and the physical disk was running out of space on the system drive. Which happened to be the ONLY drive in the server. Yes I know that the system, log and dbase files should all be on separate drives, but I did not build this machine. And it has been the only Exchange server in the organization for almost six years! So I can’t just shut it down.

I did a P2V (physical to Virtual) conversion using and Acronis Image (VMware kicks as at this by the way) and moved it to my ESX Cluster on my SAN, with the hope of being able to at least add some more space to the existing drive and then add additional hard drives (virtual of course) to split up the log and dbase files onto drives other than the %system'% drive.

The P2V went OK with some minor issues with 'hidden network' cards and such causing problems. But I got past that. Following 'Method 1' here http://support.microsoft.com/kb/269155 (note that you must not close the command line window after step 2 or you will not see the devices!!).

I also had to re-run the Exchange adprep/domainprep on the Domain controller to fix some messed up AD containers/connectors. I also found that after the adprep that was a reference to on old SBS2000 Exchange server that was no longer on the network (fax service too) and I manually removed those via the ADSIedit.msc. So finally it was at least working again! We, as do most organizations that have been around for a while, have a huge spam/malicious email flood that is continually taxing the server. But that is for another post.

So on to the next MAJOR issue. When I moved the machine to a VM I expanded the one and only drive - C: from 32GB to 40GB before starting and connecting it. This sounds all well and good but that extra 8GB of space just shows up as 'unallocated' space in the Windows 2003 Server Disk Manager.
I also did create two other volumes on the datastore that houses that machine for the future moving of the logs and dbase files and attached them to the Server.

So now my Exchange 2003 server has three disks (drives) listed in Disk Manager a C: drive still running out of space (but showing 8GB of 'unallocated space) and two additional large (30GB) drives (F & G); which I will eventually move my log and dbase files to.

So how to expand the system drive to it's full available size?! I need to have enough room just to be able to move the dbase and log files.

There are LOADS of articles out there ranging from using DiskPart, using Acronis DiskDirector, using gparted and many others. But all seem extremely complex and with poor success rates according to the very long responses on the posts.

I finally found a SUPER blog post By JJ Clements here that looked VERY promising!

So I gave it a try. My first issue was that (as noted in some of the comments) that I had to run the Dell EXTPART utility in safemode. Kind of a bitch to get into in VMware – you have to be VERY quick with the F8 key!

But I was able to expand the drive to the full 40GB. All would be good and well if this wasn’t an Exchange server.

BUT THEN MY INFORMATION STORES WOULDN’T MOUNT!! ARRGGG!!!

The solution – run a repair on the information stores (as per MS’s article here). I could not however run the offline defrag (step 3 in the MS article) to the local system – I’m still out of space! But I will run that to another drive later. I then restart all services.

BAM!! THE F$*ker works!

Well that’s all in a 15hour day I’m done.

Re-Installing Windows 7 if you don’t have original installation media.

Many people who purchased a computer with Windows 7 installed have found that nearly every manufacturer no longer provides you with the Operating System Media (DVDs). You will only be provided with a ‘restore to factory settings option’. Which will only work if the system ‘restore’ partition has not also been corrupted. And if like a recent case I had (you can read that here)you have ‘dual booted' or otherwise changed your partitions configurations you may not be able to get to the ‘Factory Restore’ option. And if, when you purchased your system you didn't immediately create the 'restore media/DVD's disc(s) you may be hosed if you have to re-install your your Windows 7 Operating system because it died, became corrupted or was otherwise compromised.
Well fear not!
As long as you have your installation Key - contained on your COA (Certificate of Authenticity) you can download and re-install your system! COA is that sicker put on by the manufacturer somewhere on your system. 

If you cant read it or it has been rubbed off, you can also use one of these tools to find out your installation Keys. [You must use your legally obtained key on the same hardware by the way, or you are breaking the law!]

LicenseCrawler (Excellent tool by Martin Klinzmann!)
Download here

More information

Or you can try Aporah KeyFinder:

Or Majic JellyBean (I’ve used this one many times too)

[note - these applications will be flagged by 90+% of all virus scanners as a 'key finder/logger' IT IS A KEY FINDER OBVIOUSLY. So often you must disable you AV protection for the brief moment you download and use this. Get your key information. then Copy the information to paper and TURN YOUR AV SOFTWARE BACK ON!]

Windows 7 comes in various editions like Ultimate, Professional, Home Premium, Home Basic and Starter. Now there might be many cases when you would like to choose the edition during setup. But in reality they are pretty much the same except for one configuration file!

Here are the individual downloads:

Windows 7 Home Premium x86 SP1 (bootable) download

Windows 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 (bootable) download

Windows 7 Professional x86 SP1 (bootable) download

Windows 7 Professional x64 SP1 (bootable) download

Windows 7 Ultimate x86 SP1 (bootable) download

Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1 (bootable) download

BUT I recommend downloading the 'Ultimate version’ (either 64bit or x86) and then deleting the configuration file that 'tells' the installation program which version it is. This way you will have ALL options available and then should be able to use YOUR LEGITIMATE installation Key.
I also recommend that you make a bootable USB installation. It will make things much quicker and easier in the long run. If you have multiple Windows 7 Systems (netbooks especially, as most don’t have DVD drives etc.) you can use the single USB with your valid installation keys on every one. [Again you must have valid/legal keys for each installation.]

Simplest way to make you installation 'version free' is to delete the file ‘ei.cfg’ from the sources directory of the installation media. Doing this step is what makes the USB memory stick allow you to install any version of Windows 7 as it no longer has a default version configured.

I wrote about the simplest way(s) to do that (create Bootable USB) using Microsoft's USB tool here. You can run “del F:\sources\ei.cfg” (replace 'F' with whatever drive you're USB is) from the command prompt and you Windows 7 Bootable USB memory stick is ready to go.

You can now either boot from the USB memory stick or just run setup.exe from the drive to start the install process. Either way you will now prompted for the version of Windows 7 you want to install!

If you are going to burn the ISO directly to DVD then you can can also use a free tool "ei.cfg Removal Utility" to delete "ei.cfg" file so that you can choose the desired version at the time of installation.

OR you can use another free tool "Windows 7 ISO Image Edition Switcher" to modify "ei.cfg" file so that you can convert a specific Windows 7 edition setup ISO file (e.g. Windows 7 Ultimate) to another one (e.g. Windows 7 Professional).

I hope this helps for those who asked.

Backups, system failures and peace of mind

Another week in the trenches. I had a primary server at our organization have a major failure. The SAS controller (which provides access to SAS type HDDs) died OR the motherboard to the server itself has an issue. Either way without another ‘like’ system that I can put the SAS card into to see if the issues is just the card or the motherboard I cannot access my drives – and they too may be very corrupted. The only machine I have capable of putting the card into is in production. And the cost of a replacement Dell Perc5i SAS card is nearly $200.00 US and could take days to get here. Plus I needed to have this system back up and running very quickly – the server in question runs all or our company financial, shipping and reporting software applications!

Since I have all my ‘data’ backed up to a server drive every night I was secure in the knowledge that we at least had the financial databases and ‘files’ available. But how to get a system back into production? Disk Imaging to the rescue!! I had a fairly recent full system image, created with my favorite backup software – Acronis, available. Yay! Just need a place to restore it to.

Since my organization now has a VMware ESXi/vSphere SAN and cluster running I was easily able to create/import a new ‘Virtual Machine’ from the Acronis disk image very quickly and then just copy over the backed up data files from the night/early morning before. WORKED LIKE A CHARM! If I’d had an available server (Hardware wise) I could also have restored that image to it too.

I’m telling this to you to remind you - I believe in Images(Clones) for my backups, alone with periodic ‘file backups’. That way I’m protected against full drive failures/loses AND stupidity – accidentally erasing or overwriting files.
[Imaging or cloning is the procedure by which you create a backup that is identical to a bootable system either to another internal or external drive. This is the ultimate backup! Should your drive fail you can just ‘pop in’ your cloned drive or ‘restore’ that clone to a new drive and your are up and running.]

If you are not regularly creating full image backups you WILL be sorry! I have written numerous articles about cloning and back up.

PLEASE read here if you any kind of concern for you data.

For Mac images and cloning go here.

So of course this weekend I created two new images on separate drives for my home system(s). I can’t tell you the peace of mind you will get from knowing that the worst that could happen to your system is that you might lose a couple of days or a weeks worth of information. If your drive gets corrupted or fails or you get trashed by some virus, you could be back up and running within a very short period of time! No re-installing your Operating System and programs and ‘trying’ to find you data files. Just restore the image and BAM, you up!

What prompted me to start on this rant is that Apple has finally acknowledged it is having some major issues with some of the hard drives in some of their newer systems they have been selling. Looks like some of the drives just ‘fail’. OUCH! You can read about that here.

And although you can have your drive replaced – YOU WILL LOSE YOUR DATA! The Apple folk and/or kids the the ‘Genius’ bar will NOT re-install your system software or clone your drive for you!! Unless you have an image to restore you will have to re-install you System and applications. And unless you had at least some kind of backup to another drive (Time Machine type) your data (read pictures and music!) will be gone!

So folks, backup, backup and then backup again.

The cost of a couple of extra external drives and a little program setup is minuscule to the cost of losing you ‘digital life’. Right now Acronis has a special – only $29.00 US for their home product!! With Apple’s you can even get a way with out purchasing any software!

Be safe, be secure and gain some peace of mind.

Get your Cloud Data down to your machine

Here are some ways to get your 'cloud data' backed up locally.

I know most people look to the 'cloud' for their secondary backups (if they even have a primary one) but few people ponder what will happen if their information is lost or compromised in the cloud or the terms of service of the provider that holds that information changes to your detriment.

I am going to provide some information on how to get your data out of your web email, Facebook and some other services.

One thing I see quite often is that people cannot access their online/web mail service at an important time to find information or they lose or have deleted the information they need and have no way of retrieving it.

So let's start with web mail services. Today most people have very important information stored in their email; from plane reservations, business communications all the way to payment receipts. So in my opinion this is the first and most important place to start.

Get your mail downloaded locally.
For GMail. [My personal favorite!]:
Before you do anything, you'll need to enable POP3 and/or IMAP in Gmail, which will let you access your accounts on the desktop. To do this, head into Gmail's Settings and go to the Forwarding and POP/IMAP tab. Scroll down to the IMAP section and enable IMAP. Then save your changes, and open up your desktop email client of choice to set it up using the following instructions.

I use Outlook 2007/2010.

If you don't have Outlook you can also use Thunderbird (an open source application by the Mozilla folks)

There are also a number of other mail applications you can use to get your information - Apple Mail, Thunderbird, Outlook Express, LiveMail etc..

I like using the POP3 connections over IMAP for most of my connections.
POP mail service has been available MANY times when IMAP has NOT - for my Gmail, Hotmail and Yahoo. If the 'webmail' is not available online because of a service interruption then IMAP will most certainly too. This is not usually the case with POP. HOWEVER there is a big caveat with POP - you must make sure in the advanced settings or your mail client that you choose "to leave a copy of the message on the server"!!

But IMAP does have its advantages too.
So pick what will provide you with the most features you feel you will need - I suspect that would be IMAP probably be best for most people.

To set up POP with Gmail look here,  and find your client and follow the steps.
For IMAP go here.  and find your client or device on the list and follow the instructions.

If you'd like to read further about the differences between IMAP and POP you can read this here.

For Yahoo mail it is a little harder if you live in the U.S..
Yahoo wants you upgrade to a "Mail Plus" paid account to get POP and IMAP access directly. But you don’t have to! The best option is to use an application called YPOPs. I've used it in the past to get my Yahoo mail connected to Thunderbird and Outlook with out any issues.

If you have Window Live Mail or Apple Mail the client itself downloads your Hotmail/.Live or MacMail/MobileMe data to your machine by default. BUT remember this is an IMAP connection so if you delete something from you Live Mail client on the desktop it will be deleted on the server!

One important thin that may people miss is to get their CONTACT data out/backed-up from their mail clients. Something I also feel is very important.
For virtually all web mail clients that is as simple as going to the 'Contact' section and finding and choosing the 'Export' option. Those can then be exported into a format that virtually any Email client can import.
That should get you going with your mail.

Now to Picasa.
Simplest way is to install the latest version Mac or PC and then simply go up to the menu and use File ==> Import from Picasa Web Albums ==> Select All.
And Flickr
You can use Flickr’s Flash based web app here  just click on the 'start now' and follow the instructions.
Or you can use the open source application Downloadr . Downloadr is a photo downloader for Microsoft Windows. It provides a simple interface to download large sized images from Flickr to your computer.

Now to Facebook.
If you have Yahoo you can easily download/copy all of your contact out. You can follow this tutorial here.  One tip is that I would suggest setting up a 'temporary' Yahoo alias with NO contacts in it so that you do not end up with duplicates or mismatched merges. Then export those and import them into any application you choose.

Also Facebook now allows you to actually export YOUR data to a file! Following this VERY well written walk-through right here. I've done it and it works great! You may have to wait a while before you receive your 'confirmation email' and link but you will be able to get your stuff.

Finally there is an open source application Called MyCube Vault. MyCube Vault Backs Up Your Facebook and Google Data Regularly
Once installed, the app requires you to authorize it to each of the services you want to back up. From there you can tell the service where to store your backups and how often to save your data. If you're concerned about downtime or just wary of keeping your data in the cloud, it's worth a look.

I checked it out and it works well.
Windows version here

Mac version here

Well that is a long winded post and I hope some people will put it to use. Like backing up your local data don’t be the person who loses precious information because you were too lazy or couldn’t be bothered to learn something new.

Peace.

Another serious Web Browser hole

Contexis Security has found a BIG problem with WebGL implementations on Windows, Mac and Linux have numerous vulnerabilities which allow malicious web pages to capture any window on the system or crash the computer, according to research from Context Information Security. They actually demonstrate how to steal user data through web browsers using this vulnerability!

The report comes right on the heels of Microsoft's denunciation yesterday of the security architecture of WebGL and announcement that it wouldn't be seen in Microsoft products any time soon see here .

Sheesh! IE 9 is proving to be WAY more secure that FireFox and even Chrome! But until I can get the Firefox Extensions I use (or comparable) in IE I’m still a FireFox guy.

So let's fix that:
To Disabe WebGL in Firefox 4

1. Type about:config in Firefox address bar and continue on through past the warning dialog.

2. Type "webgl.disabled" (no quotes) into the Filter box then Double click Webgl.disabled entry and turn its value into “True”.

3. Restart Firefox browser, WebGL is now disabled in Firefox 4.

To disable WebGL in Google Chrome you will need to:

1. Rright-click your Google Chrome shortcut or from your Windows menu on your desktop, click ‘properties’ and add “-disable-webgl” to the Target Shortcut box

2. Restart Chrome

As always please keep your systems, Web Browses and their plug-ins, Anti-virus/Antispyware software, and applications (especially Adobe products!!) up to date and fully patched.

And try and be vigilant about security and always ‘on guard’.

The connection to Microsoft Exchange is unavailable. Outlook must be online or connected to complete - Cant add Outlook accounts…

How I recently fixed one hell of an Outlook 2007 to Exchange 2003 connection problem.

This occurred on brand new Windows 7 Enterprise AND brand new Windows XP workstations while trying to configure the Outlook clients to connect to our Exchange 2003 server.

The actual error is:
"The connection to Microsoft Exchange is unavailable. Outlook must be online or connected to complete - Cant add Outlook accounts.."

Worse still is that this problem did not occur one every new workstation! Windows XP or Windows 7 - only some random ones.

I checked all network/connectivity parameters I could - DNS, LDAP, RPC, TCP/IP etc., and otherwise checked routing and name resolution ad nauseum. And all checked out.
I had this problem a year or so ago but could not find any of my notes! Aggravating to no end. So I swore I would make sure to document my fix when I found one.
So Google here I come....

One of the first things I did then was this:
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/913843/en-us

I checked that the 'Attendant' service was running on Exchange; it has been for a few years.

And virtually everything mentioned in every article I could find - 5 days of searching and hundreds of pages!!
Like:
http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/exchangesvrclients/thread/44a24ec6-33b5-4b66-9fdb-2318b4874fbc

and

http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/exchangesvrclients/thread/1227b956-c533-4c08-b56d-150ad8486b4c

I also tried importing the Outlook registry keys from machines (both Windows 7 and Windows XP) that do work - still no joy.

I literally went 11 pages deep on Google http://goo.gl/EddW9 and many, many more deep from each of those, looking for a fix!

I read deep somewhere in one post that someone mentioned running 'Outlook rpcdiag' - I don't remember that switch. I checked RPC on the machine(s) and it showed no errors already right..

But since this was a specific 'Outlook' switch I though what the hell.
So...
I ran:
"outlook /rpcdiag" from the command line.

It tried to 'find connections error' but did not report anything. Damn..
Then it just closed after it could not really start.

Then I started Outlook in Safemode (I was prompted to upon launching Outlook, but it can be run "outlook /safe").

I was then able to add and configure the Exchange account and get connected!!
I waited until it updated the mailbox completely.
Then I restarted Outlook normally and IT WORKS NOW on all of the affected boxes!

I am not sure if all of these steps need to be taken but I now have a plan to follow.

I hope this may help someone, because from most of the posts I read it is a MAJOR issue and MS is not doing much about it! At least I’ll have my notes.

How to create a VPN Connection on MAC OS X 10.5 Leopard

How to create a VPN Connection on MAC OS X 10.5 Leopard

This is a step-by-step guide on how to create a VPN Connection on a MAC OS X 10.5 Leopard System.

I recently had to do this again for some of our remote staff, so I thought I’d post it as a reminder to me and maybe help others who have asked in the past.

1. Go to ‘Apple’ –> ‘System Preferences’

2. Select ‘Network‘ from system preferences

3. In ‘Network‘ system preferences, click the ‘+‘ icon on the bottom left cover of window to make a new VPN Conection.

4. As shown in the image below, a new window appears. Click on the ‘Interface’ menu and see the list of choices and select ‘VPN’.

5. Next, Change the ‘VPN type‘ from ‘L2TP over IPSec’ to  ‘PPTP‘. And then In the ‘Service Name’ field, type in ‘VPN Office’ or ‘Company Name VPN’ or make one up. Once you have done, Click on ‘Create’

6. Next, we need to make a configuration. Select the ‘Confguration’ drop menu and select ‘Add Configuration’

7. A window will pop up, asking to name your new configuration. Type you ‘Company Name VPN’ here and then click ‘create’

8. Next, enter in your company’s ‘Server Address’ example; ‘server.domain.com’ or ‘72.14.213.x’ and ‘Username’, for example ‘administrator’ or ‘LarryHolmes’ or what ever

9. Next, Select the ‘Authentication settings’ button

10. Enter in Your ‘password’ and click ‘OK’

11. Next, Click on the ‘Advanced’ Button

12. Make sure that ‘Send all traffic over VPN Connection’ is unticked. Then Click ‘OK’

14. Once you have done that, click ‘Apply’. And connect to your New Vpn Connection by clicking on ‘Connect’.

There you go…

Consolidating and Cleaning up iTunes library and files

After consolidating, merging and updating a bunch of separate iTunes libraries and directories I was annoyed at how messed up my iTunes library and directories had become. I tried moving and ‘consolidating’ my library as described here for PC here for Mac go here. This method should retain all your playlists and remove many duplicates. There is also an Apple script to help if you are on Mac.

If you are on a Mac you can probably get by with using the move/consolidate technique and some GREAT script/apps located here. Doug’s main site is here  and worth checking out. I can’t say enough about the value of these tools – well worth the low price!

But sadly for me and many others nearly all my music is on (and managed) via Windows machines and *nix storage. So that still left me with loads of duplicates and entries with no actual files (file not found in iTunes). I also had come across loads of other music folders and libraries on old machines – many which had music that I didn’t in my current library but of course loads of duplicates.

So I was off to create a ‘clean’ iTunes library – No duplicates and all files correctly tagged. There are some applications that may do what I need for PC (as I’ll mention at the end) but I wanted to try and do it via freeware tools. [Take note that the following will eliminate your playlist and counts! So if you really need to have your playlist or play counts preserved don’t go further and try one of the paid options!]

Now, on to my adventure….

I deleted the original library. The location of your library files can be found here.

I then installed the latest greatest version of iTunes. After install, I set my directory options [in advanced preferences] to a new clean location on my HDD. I also set the option to ‘import new music to iTunes directory’.

I copied all my various music directories (from all machines and drives – both networked and external] to a temporary location; I ended up with about 7 different folders with loads of iTunes music directories.

I would then used that location to ‘import’ back into iTunes by selecting the ‘File’>Add Folder to Library’ option.

After all the importing was done I could see LOADS of doubles and garbage. So I set off to first remove the actual EXACT file duplicates.

Remember that many songs have the same Title, Artist and description tags (musically speaking) but may actually be different versions – live, acoustic, re-mastered etc., or from different albums such as compilations or soundtracks. So in iTunes you may see many doubles (if you go to File>Show Duplicates) that are really not actual duplicates!

My goal was to first delete the actual files that were exact file duplicates.

To do this I used the freeware tool Duplicate Cleaner download here. This looks for files based on their MD5 hash signature – so the file it finds are EXACTLY the same.

Download and install it and then run it. Select the location of your iTunes music folder and Choose scan.

When the scan is complete you should all your duplicate files.

Then you can highlight the ones you want to mark for deletion. Click on first item then the space bar and use the arrow key to move up or down to highlight next selections and press the space bar to ‘check’ the next and keep going till you have all your doubles or others you want removed highlighted.

Choose your delete or ‘move’ options. You may want to just move the items if you are really concerned about deleting files you might really want or need to keep.

Then I used the tool called iTunes Library Updater from here.

Download and install it.

Then open iTunes and minimize it.

Then open the iTunes Library Updater and run it.

Locate your iTunes music directory, as I mentioned, I put mine to a different location for easy sharing/backup/cleanup.

Select the folder

Here I chose the above options. Then ‘Start’

Then wait till done

Click close, close the application and then close iTunes.

Then reopen and check iTunes.

I actually did the above a few times and it made a HUGE difference in my library!

Real duplicates seem to be gone and my music tags appear to be much more in order too!

As I’ve mentioned, there are many other articles and some tools that are supposed to do all of this.

There are two highly rated applications – TuneUp is one and the other is Rinse, which may even do this even better, but they are not free (both run $39.00 I think). And I haven’t used either of them yet.

Here is Tune Up and over Here is Rinse.

Here is one such article with another tool.

But, I still haven’t found anything that has done as well a job as my above method for FREE.

I hope this helps some. Next time I might spring for the paid apps but I did learn something and maybe you will too! Good luck!

Great Simple How To & Tech Support videos from Google

These videos are from Google's "Send Your Parents A Tech Support Package" site.

Basically it is a site that lets the techies (usually the younger generation) send some 'canned support' to their parents and elders. But these are also especially useful to those that are either new to computers and technology or just a little less tech savvy.

The short videos are actually very well thought out and clearly and quickly presented so that just about anyone can learn from them.

I believe that many folks who 'think they know it all' should just take a look anyways. In my line of work I am amazed that people who literally work for 8+ hours on a computer do not know how to do many of these simple tasks.
The reasons, I think, are that many people are afraid to ask for help, they think they can just 'figure it out', or truly don't care to learn how to more efficiently or properly use technology. Some people refuse to learn out of some warped sense of ego or pride too.
Don't be one of those. No one’s head has every exploded from learning how to do something new or more efficiently.

I am going to link to all the videos directly so you can peruse them at your leisure. This is very large post with LOADS of great information. I really hope many of you will take the time and view these very short helpful videos. If you wish to watch them full screen you can click on the ‘arrow’ below the YouTube icon on the lower right hand corner and choose ‘full screen modes’.

So let’s start with the first category - THE BASICS:

COPY & PASTE

ADJUST THE TIME ON YOUR CLOCK

CHANGE YOUR DESKTOP BACKROUND – MAC

CHANGE YOUR DESKTOP WALLPAPER – PC

MAKE TEXT BIGGER OR SMALLER

TAKE A SCREENSHOT

CHANGE YOUR SCREEN SAVER – MAC

CHANGE YOUR SCREEN SAVER – PC

Next - WORLD WIDE WEB (INTERNET)

CREATE A STRONG PASSWORD

MAKE BOOKMARKS

MAKE A BLOG

SHORTEN A LONG URL

CHANGE YOUR DEFAULT HOME PAGE

CREATE AN ONLINE CALENDAR

BROWSE THE WEB WITH TABS

Next – COMMUNICATION

SET UP AN EMAIL AUTO-RESPONDER

TRANSLATE TEXT

MAKE CALLS FROM YOUR COMPUTER

CHECK YOUR SPELLING

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=En8e79YvA0Y

CHAT

VIDEO CHAT

GET A NEW PHONE NUMBER

CREATE A MAILING LIST

CREATE AN EMAIL SIGNATURE

CHECK YOUR EMAIL ON YOUR PHONE

Next – MEDIA

RESIZE A PICTURE

SHARE A BIG FILE

ATTACH A FILE TO AN EMAIL

SHARE PHOTOS

CROP PHOTOS

SHARE VIDEOS

TRANSFER FILES BETWEEN COMPUTERS

KEEP TRACK OF FREQUENT FLIER MILES

Lastly - FINDING INFORMATION

FIND A PIZZA(OR OTHER) RESTAURANT NEAR YOU

GET MOVIE SHOWTIMES

FIND THE DEFINITION OF A WORD

GET DRIVING DIRECTIONS

TRACK A FLIGHT'S STATUS

CONVERT CURRENCY

USE GOOGLE AS A CALCULATOR

GET PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION DIRECTIONS

FIND A BUSINESS'S PHONE NUMBER

GET STOCK QUOTES

FIND RESTAURANT REVIEWS

VIEW LIVE TRAFFIC

Jailbreaking iDevices Continues

Ok iPhoners and iPaders if you have a new device and/or the latest iOS installed (4.1.x) you can now 'jailbreak' them easily with the latest 'GreenPois0n' Jailbreak tool.

Greenpois0n  jailbreaks the iPhone 4/3GS, iPod touch 4G/3G, and the iPad. Their blog is here.

Here is a video of it in action.

Currently the crack is Windows only so (Mac and Linux users will have to borrow a Windows computer or run Windows in virtualization. They should be porting to all other OS's soon.

I don’t have have an iDevice anymore but couldn’t imagine being locked into Apples restrictive use policies – and now the courts agree too. Article here and here.

You can Google the benefits yourself but here is a good quick article.

Simple Performance Tips

I am asked a few times a week at minimum “how can I speed up my system?” by friends, family and colleagues alike. Here are some very simple performance tips I perform on nearly all Windows systems I work with.

Before starting any system modifications please make sure you have a recent backup. Follow my previous posts here and here on backups and images. Run Windows update and update your Antivirus/Antispyware apps and other applications like Adobe Reader [launch the app, go to Help on the menu bar and go down to ‘Check For Updates’ and run and install.] Also update Adobe flash by opening your browser and going to Adobe’s site and getting the latest version. PDF and Flash are the most common vector for malicious code.

BE CAREFUL WHEN INSTALLING ADOBE PRODUCTS!!! They like to include ‘SHITWARE’, third party applications YOU DON’T NEED OR WANT', like McAfee scanner or other ‘toolbars. Make sure to ‘uncheck’ any options to download AND install these when updating Adobe (or any others for that matter) applications. Be careful they are tricky and put other toolbar installers in the application updates – so before ‘just clicking’ ok/next make sure NOT to install any toolbars or other applications.

The run an Anti-virus and Anti-spyware scans to make sure your system is clean.

OK now for the meat:

First go to Mike Lin’s home page and get his great little ‘startup’ application.

http://mlin.net/StartupCPL.shtml

Download the standalone application here.
It's in a zip file.

Extract and save somewhere like 'My Documents' or your desktop.
Then just double click to launch it. If you are on Windows Vista or Windows 7 right-click and run as administrator.

You will then be shown all the different start up parameters for your system and the applications which are scheduled to start at various events - login, machine startup, user login etc. Simply click on an item to highlight it, right click and choose and option.

Using

The dialog contains six to seven tabs, depending on your system configuration. Each tab represents one place where a program can be registered to run at system startup. These include:

    * Startup (user) - the current user's Startup folder in the Start Menu.
    * Startup (common) - the common (all users) Startup folder in the Start Menu.
    * HKLM / Run - the Run registry key located in HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE. These apply for all users.
    * HKCU / Run - the Run registry key located in HKEY_CURRENT_USER. These apply for the current user only.
    * Services - system services that are started before the user logs in. This appears only in Win9x; on NT/2000/XP, use the Services control panel, or the Services item in Computer Management.
    * Run Once - started once and once only at the next system startup.
    * Deleted - programs go to the Deleted tab when you remove them from another location. They will not run at system startup, but will merely be stored should you ever want to use them again. If you delete an item from the Deleted tab, it is removed permanently.

Each page contains a list of the programs registered at that location. Use the checkbox to enable or disable individual items. Additional operations are available by right-clicking an item. You can select multiple items using the Shift and Control keys. Options include:

    * New... - create a new entry. You can also drag & drop files from My Computer or Explorer.
    * Edit... - edit an existing entry.
    * Delete - delete the currently selected entry.
    * Disable / Enable - disable or enable the selected entry. A disabled program will appear in the list with a special icon, and will not run at system startup. You can also use the checkbox next to an item to enable or disable it.
    * Run Now - executes the program now.
    * Send To - moves the entry from the current location to another.

Press F5 to refresh the list at any time.

Be careful to NOT remove items critical to Windows and your Antivirus/Antispyware applications. Things that should stay are things like 'ctfmon.exe (an office application), and your sound and /or track pad drivers.
Please note:
Before you disable or delete any listed startup items 'Google' the exact 'exe' file located in the path and FIND OUT WHAT IT IS AND DOES FIRST!

Here is and example of what I mean.

I usually find dozens of items that do NOT need to be starting at startup and/or login. Things like Adobe Acrobat 'speed loader’, Adobe Updater, Google Updated, QuickTime, Messenger, Yahoo Toolbar, HP Image Center apps etc.

Another source of system hogging apps at startup are printers. HP (and nearly all software nowadays) is notorious for loading as many as a dozen ‘helper’ applications that you don’t need to run at start up. Things for updates, scanner updates, help desks, online help files and the like. All these items put a strain on system resources.

I find I can often dramatically increase the performance of most peoples machines by stopping all this ‘crapware’ from loading in the first place.

Once you have unchecked or deleted all the crapware from loading at startup restart your machine to make sure all works. If something is amok you can start in SafeMode (hold F8 before Windows starts) and run the app again and recheck or undelete any items as needed. If all is working time for next step.

Next item is clearing out temporary files. I use CCleaner. In fact I run this application EVERYTIME I close any browser, before I log off or shut down!

Here is the line for the application. Download, install, run and choose  ‘Run Cleaner’.

The first time this is run many people are stunned by the size and amount of files it cleans out.

Then it’s time to do a ‘super defrag’ on your system.

I like Defraggler a lot.

Get it here. Since this is an intense defragmenter – it makes files ‘contiguous’ on the disk, it can take a long while the first time it is run. Sometimes all night! But definitely run this.

Please read my other posts on resolving Windows problems too.

I you have a Mac check out this article here.

Well that is all for now have a save fun computing experience.